their double sail set, crossed and recrossed along it. Here lay the huge dark hulk of a Dutchman, with its spiry mast, towering far above the others; and on the other side, the flag of a Frenchman was trembling to the breeze. On the shore, men, women, and children were collected in groups, talking over the success of the fishing; while some were still actively employed in curing the few herrings that remained unpacked. The barrels were piled in heaps against the sides of the houses, or scattered in masses along the sands. The interior of Burra resembles South Ronaldsa in all respects, only that it is adorned with a considerable fresh-water loch, the resort of various aquatic birds. The walk over it is about two miles. The next ferry across to Pomona, or Mainland, takes about an hour's sail. Two or three pedlars were fellow passengers with me; they are going to Kirkwall fair, which commences on Tuesday next, and lasts eleven days. The poor inn at Holm, the landing place, supplied me with a few biscuits, before I undertook the remaining seven miles. The aspect of the country is precisely similar to that of the other islands, except that the wastes and heathery braes are upon a grander scale. The road is well marked, but miserably dusty, a fault, however, which the climate does not often allow to be laid to its charge. The roof of an Orkney cottage is curiously constructed. Instead of tiles, they use what they call dyvots, i. e. thin square pieces of turf; over these is placed a layer of straw, which is bound down by ropes of twisted heather. The ropes are not attached to the roof at all, but are kept tight by means of long slabs of stone, suspended from both their extremities. The window, when there is one (and it is by no means a sine quâ non) is a small hole towards the bottom of the roof, consequently not vertical, about a foot square, glazed in a rude way. The chimney, or rather the orifice for the egress of the smoke, is at the top, but not immediately over the peat fire; so that the said smoke is generally very deliberate in its exit, and peers into every nook and cranny of the dark walls, before it determines upon the right one. Sometimes the refinement of a herring-barrel may be seen sticking out of the roof, and acting by way of lum. There is a singular round tower, of most ancient aspect, attached to almost every one of these cot tages; it is nothing more than the kiln used for drying their grain. I was rejoiced on regaining the summit of the last hill, to see beneath me the noble tower of St. Magnus, rising far above all the other buildings of Kirkwall; but it was not without difficulty that I found my way to a good inn. I went about, asking for Macdonald's hotel, to which I had been recommended. Not a soul could tell me any thing about such a place. At last I thought I would give up all idea of discovering it; and so after receiving from an old woman the questionable answer of "What's your wull ?" and the subsequent shake of the head, "Well, then," said I, "if you can't tell me where Macdonald's hotel is, tell me which is the best inn in the place." "Inn!" retorted the old dame in a most theatrical attitude, "is it Macdonald's Inn ye're speerin' for ?" 66 Yes, to be sure it is." "Oh! then, ye'll just gae down by St. Magnus' Kirk, that's the great toor ye see there, an' then ye'll just hae to speer again." a a "You will just have to ask again.” |