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formed in places of worship; but many of the shops are open, and many trades are carried on, not only after, but actually during the time of divine service. I recollect perfectly well, that returning from church, my ears were assailed with the loud noise of a blacksmith's hammer, which might be heard at a considerable distance, although the Divine law for our government on this day of rest lays down expressly, that no manner of work' shall be done on it. I have, too, seen peasants with articles for sale, and carts driving about. Further, it is rendered a day of common diversions and amusements, where decency seems to be laid aside. In the afternoon, the inhabitants appear to have a regular 'turn out, and their course is particularly directed to Charlottenburg, where are tents fitted up in the gardens that are let out at ten dollars each; and here numerous parties regale themselves, while bands of music are playing. A theatre is also open on Sunday evening."

CHURCHES.

THE churches of Copenhagen are numerous, but there are few of them remarkable either for architectural beauty, or on account of any interest which attaches to them. The principal is the Freu Kirke, or Church of Our Lady, which is a new edifice, built on the site of the cathedral, destroyed during the bombardment of 1807. It is a heavy structure, in the Grecian style of architecture, with a handsome portico of the Doric order; its length is 215 feet, and its breadth 180. It has a steeple in the form of a tower, which is surmounted by a gilt cross.

In our engraving in page 73 the lofty church of St. Saviour, which stands in the market-place in Christianshaven, may be distinguished. This edifice is remarkable for its curious steeple, which has a staircase running round outside of it, in a spiral form, gradually lessening until it reaches the top. Its ascent is very easy, and the height of its summit being nearly 300 feet, the view thence is said to be delightful, embracing the whole of the city, its palaces, churches, docks, and arsenals, together with the busy picture of the Sound, and the scenery of the Swedish, coast. This church possesses a fine organ, which is highly decorated with carvings,-" putting one in mind," to use the words of a recent traveller, "of those beautiful pulpits in many of the churches of Belgium." The altar is also said to be handsome, being composed of Italian marble; and the font is chaste and elegant. The seats in the gallery are divided off into boxes; and this makes the church look more like a theatre than a place of worship."

Some time ago an attempt was made in Copenhagen to build a church on a scale of excessive magnificence. The building was commenced in the reign of Frederick the Fifth, and was intended to surpass every structure of the kind hitherto seen in the north. The dome was to have risen 264 feet from the ground, and the Corinthian pillars in front would have been, judging from a single specimen, nine feet in diameter, or about ninety feet in height, pedestal and capital included. The walls inside and outside were all to have been of polished Norwegian marble, and

the whole edifice was to have been finished in the most

magnificent style. Large sums of money were expended upon the work, but twenty years elapsed before the building had risen thirty feet above the ground; and a stop was then put to its progress. The Danes say that the ground was loose, and the foundation unable to support the weight of the building; but others assert that the undertaking was abandoned because money was wanting to defray the enormous expense attendant upon it.

PALACES.

ONE of the finest buildings in the city is the new palace of the king, which has been recently erected on the site of that consumed by fire. It was commenced by Christian the Seventh, and finished by the present monarch; and is altogether upon a scale of considerable magnificence. Its principal staircase is formed of the finest mahogany, with railings of brass; and the great saloon, which measures 280 feet in length and 24 in breadth, is floored with marble. A chapel is attached, which adjoins the main body of the edifice on the western side; it is 219 feet in length, and 100 in breadth, and is surmounted by a spacious dome covered with copper. Close to the palace is the ridingschool, which is thus described by Mr. John Barrow, jun.

"I went there one morning, and found some officers, in an undress military uniform, exercising the horses. Some of the animals were as beautiful as any I have ever seen; but the mode of treating them seemed to me to be calculated, in a very short space of time, to ruin the temper of any young horse. The stables are contiguous to the ridinghouse, and are in the form of a crescent, with walls on either side. There are sixty or seventy stalls in each, which were nearly all occupied: those on one side were all for carriage-horses, and those on the other kept for the saddle. Among the former, I remarked eight of the most beautiful cream-colour, and eight iron-gray, neither of them surpassed by those of the same colours belonging to the King of England. The saddle-horses are led out from the stables by grooms attired in splendid liveries, who walk them round the school once or twice, holding them in tight with their reins in the left hand, and with the right switching them repeatedly with a whip. They are then severally mounted by one of the officers, with his long and sharprowelled spurs, which he sticks into the sides of the poor the same time with a sharp curb. This constant urging animal in the most unmerciful manner, holding him in at and reining-in, frets the horse to such a degree, that, in his sides. Another is then brought in and treated in the less than ten minutes, the sweat is actually running down same cruel manner, and so they go on until they have all had their turn. stables, they are fastened in the stalls by a strap on each When they are again taken into the I took particular notice of some of them after they had side of the bit, and stand with their tails to the manger. been ridden, and found their sides and mouths bleeding profusely, which, indeed, I conjectured could not well have been otherwise. They all had fine long tails reaching to the ground, and exceedingly full."

Castle of Rosenberg, which was originally a country-house, Of the other palaces, the most worthy of notice is the but which, in consequence of the extension of the city, now stands within the walls. It was founded by Christian the after a design of our celebrated countryman, Inigo Jones. Fourth, in the year 1604, and is said to have been erected It stands in the midst of gardens which are shaded with stately trees, and seem to have been modelled on the same plan as those of the Tuileries at Paris; they afford excellent public walks, and used formerly to be one of the principal places of fashionable resort, but they are now chiefly frequented by the lower classes of the people. The architecture of the edifice is of an antique style; but the place remarkable for a grand hall or saloon, in which the king exhibits symptoms of considerable decay. It is principally performs annually the ceremony of opening the courts of law. This room is 142 feet in length and 30 in breadth, but its height is rather small; its walls are ornamented with ancient tapestry, on which are depicted the exploits of

some of the Danish monarchs in their wars with the Swedes. The ceiling is embellished with various ornaments in relief, executed in the time of Frederick the Fourth, and commemorating different incidents in his reign.

On the occasion of the ceremony above alluded to, which takes place on the first Thursday in the month of March, this hall is carefully fitted up. The king, surrounded by his principal officers of state, is seated on his throne, before which, upon the floor, stand three lions, the size of life, formed of massive silver, and each weighing 196 pounds. The centre of the room is occupied by two long tables, covered with red cloth; at these the judges are seated. A space beyond is railed off to serve as an entrance, and a second railing separates the places reserved for the accommodation of foreign ambassadors, and persons of distinction, who desire to be spectators of the scene. The meeting is entirely a matter of form; a short case is pleaded, and decided before the king in person.

The other apartments of this palace contain many objects of curiosity and attraction. In a little room adjoining the hall are several services of plate, vases, and goblets of crystal, which were presented to Frederick the Fourth, by the republic of Venice; the collection is said to be very valuable, and to be well arranged. In another room is a magnificent display of jewellery, precious stones, and medallions; and among other objects of interest, is a diploma from the University of Cambridge, creating the late king, Christian the Seventh, a doctor of laws, together with a gold box, presented to him on the occasion of the freedom of the city of London being conferred on him, and a second presented to him by the Goldsmiths*

Company. In a small apartment is the saddle of Christian the Fourth, covered with pearls, said to be worth 30,000l., which he once used upon a grand gala day at Copenhagen. In the cabinet of jewels are the coronation-chairs, crowns, and several valuable and curious assortments of jewellery; here is, also, a massy silver font, which is used on the occasion of royal christenings.

MUSEUM, ETC.

THE royal museum is deposited in one of the wings of the palace of Christianburg, to which the flames did not extend, when the main body of the building was burnt down in 1794. It is a place of considerable attraction to a stranger, for it contains many objects calculated to excite curiosity and interest. Amongst a great variety of valuable articles, there are several exquisite carvings in wood, executed by the peasants of Norway, who are very skilful in this description of work; indeed, one of them excelled so highly in it, that the estimation in which his carved cups are held by connoisseurs, renders them fully worth their weight in silver. There is, also, a wooden bust of king Christian the Fifth, which is said to have been carved by a shepherd, who, in the year 1688, when the monarch went to Drontheim, in Norway, stood in the road to see him pass, and retained so fixed an impression of the royal countenance, as to be enabled accurately to imitate every feature and lineament. The display of ivory carvings, of jewels, of articles of gold and silver, porcelain ware, together with Egyptian, Grecian, and Roman antiquities, is very splendid. Several relics of Tycho Brahe are to be seen, and among them, his chair, and the watch which he used,- —a present from James the Fourth, of Scotland; these are, as might be expected, carefully preserved, for the celebrated astronomer is the pride of his countrymen, and everything connected with him is held in veneration. The museum also contains some natural productions worthy of attention; a mass of native silver, from the mines of Norway, nearly six feet in length, and in one part above eighteen inches in diameter, weighing 560 pounds, and valued at 5000 dollars, and a magnificent piece of amber, found in Jutland, and exceeding 27 pounds in weight, are the principal attractions. A small anchor, which retained a vessel carrying Christian the Fifth in the Baltic, after all the other anchors had given way, during a tremendous storm; the skull of Bishop Axel, or Absalon, who was the founder of the city of Copenhagen; a model of the present church and holy sepulchre of Jerusalem, said to be accurate,together with a variety of curiosities from China, India, Greenland, and other parts of the world, complete this collection.

The royal gallery of paintings is preserved in the same. structure with the museum. The collection is not very large, amounting, probably, to between 400 and 500 pictures, among which are works of Rubens, Titian, Rembrandt, Leonardo da Vinci, Salvator Rosa, Wouvermans, Claude Lorraine, Vandyck, Gerard Dow, Pouss., Cuyp, and other celebrated painters of the different schools. Of these specimens, however, there is none of surpassing merit, or which possesses any very remarkable reputation.

OBSERVATORY.

THE Observatory, of which we have given an engraving in p. 80, is a curious object. It was one of the works of Christian the Fourth, to whom the principal and most durable decorations of the city of Copenhagen are to be ascribed, yet who did not oppress his people with heavy imposts, for he used to say, "That he knew the purses of his subjects would be always open for his and the kingdom's just occasions; and he had rather they were his cashkeepers than a high-treasurer, who might abuse him." The first stone of this tower was laid by that monarch in the year 1637; and the building itself was finished in the year 1642. Its height is about 120 feet, and the ascent to the upper part of it is not by a flight of stairs, but by a spiral road of brick, which winds nearly to the top, and is of such gentle elevation, that any one might pass along it on horseback, in perfect safety. At the termination of this road, a small staircase leads to the summit, which is enclosed with a substantial iron railing. The circular at the top of this tower is said to have been used as an observatory by Tycho Brahe; it has windows on every side, and contains several instruments. In the centre, stands a bronze bust of the great astronomer, whose name is held in such high and deserved estimation by his countrymen;

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the wall is ornamented with portraits of Ptolemy, Copernicus, Newton, Bradley, and others.

Peter the Great, the celebrated Czar of Russia, is said to have driven a carriage and four up to the top of this tower, along its spiral road; and the exploit gained for him some renown, the undertaking being looked upon as extremely perilous. "I own, however," says Mr. Rae Wilson, "that cannot see the undertaking in this light, since the elevation is gradual, and the way paved or laid with brick on edge, and fifteen feet in breadth. It might be performed by almost any person without injury, especially if the animals were sufficiently spirited to go forward; and the only possible difficulty is in their acquiring a proper footing, since, if they did not, they might be drawn back by the carriage itself." The building to which this tower is attached, as the reader will perceive in the engraving, is the "Trinity Church."

UNIVERSITY, ETC.

THE university of Copenhagen is the chief establishment for education in Denmark; it was founded in 1479, by Christian the First, and has been augmented and amply endowed by several of his successors, especially by Christian the Fourth. The number of students is, on an average, about seven hundred, who come not only from Denmark, but also from Norway and Iceland; and of these 168 are maintained without charge to themselves. The funds of the university are considerable, and the professors have liberal salaries. It has a library,-a museum of natural history, a chemical laboratory,-a botanical garden, and an anatomical theatre. In this capital, as well as in other parts of Denmark, there is an institution established for the purpose of forming teachers to fill the public schools. Here certain individuals are instructed in the necessary branches of education; and at the same time, in a school which is attached to the seminary, they practise the art of teaching under the eyes of their own professors.

Copenhagen possesses a great number of literary establishments and academical societies. Of these the principal is the Royal Academy of Sciences, which was founded in 1742, and owes its existence to the zeal of six learned men, to whom Christian the Sixth intrusted the arrange. ment of his cabinet of medals. These individuals, meeting occasionally for the purpose of executing the king's commission, gradually conceived the design of forming a permanent society, and with this view, uniting with others who were eminent in different branches of science, they employed themselves in the investigation of the history and antiquities of their country. At the recommendation of one of his ministers, Christian extended his patronage to the new association, called it the Royal Academy of Sciences, endowed it with funds, and ordered the members to join to their other pursuits the study of natural history, physics, and mathematics. Under the royal protection, the institution flourished; its members employed themselves with ardour in their pursuits, and the result of their labours has been the publication of many volumes of Transactions, in the Danish language, some of which have been translated into Latin.

At the same time that the Royal Academy of Sciences was instituted, there was also established a society for the improvement of the history and languages of the North, on which Christian the Sixth bestowed his protection; it has contributed several publications which tend to throw considerable light on the early annals of Denmark. There was also a medical society established in 1772, a society for the cultivation of Icelandic literature in 1779, and a board

of longitude in 1784. The Academy of Fine Arts was founded in 1754 by Frederick the Fifth, and consists of a president, a director, eight professors of painting, sculpture, and architecture, together with four teachers of design. The pupils are numerous, and those who distinguish themselves in the prosecution of their studies are presented with medals, and sent abroad at the expense of the king, to obtain further improvement. The academy is visited annually by his majesty, after the example of his predecessors, when the prizes are delivered by him in person. The palace of Charlottenburg is appropriated to the service of the institution, and affords ample accommodation for all its purposes.

MANUFACTURES.

COPENHAGEN is the chief place for manufactures in Denmark, and has the principal establishments of them either within its walls or in its vicinity. It is not, however, what in England we should call a manufacturing

town, and the labours of its artisans are wholly directed to the supply of articles for the home consumption. All, or nearly all, of the trades which are practised in the kingdom are under the direction and superintendence of their respective guilds, or corporations; and this circumstance is said to operate as a severe restriction upon the exercise of industry, as well as greatly to fetter individual enterprise. The native mechanics have never been celebrated for their skill or ingenuity; they are paid at a high rate, but they are slow at their work, and display little taste in the execution of it. The manufacture of woollen cloth is necessarily one of the most considerable; for the country is well adapted to the rearing of sheep, and the article is one which forms an essential part of the people's dress. The number of hands employed in the woollen manufactures of Copenhagen is very considerable; and there is, besides the private establishments, a government manufactory, for the supply of the army and navy. This was established by Frederick the Fourth; it furnishes employment to 1200 persons, and yields annually between 140,000 and 150,000 ells. About seventy looms are employed in the manufacture of stockings, night-caps, mittens, and other articles of woollen hosiery; but of these a considerable supply is furnished by the peasants of Jutland, whose occupation during their long Winter evenings consists in making stockings, partly for their own use, and partly for sale.

In the neighbourhood of Copenhagen there is a manufactory of Manchester cloths, which was established upon the English plan by a Swede; it is well conducted, and gives support to about two hundred people. The refining of sugar also furnishes employment to a considerable number of workmen; for the greater part of the produce of the Danish West India Islands comes to Copenhagen. The distillation of spirits has always been an important branch of manufacture in this capital; for in this country, as indeed, throughout the whole of the northern part of Europe, the consumption of that article is large. A few years ago, there were reckoned no fewer than 240 distilleries in Copenhagen, and brandy used to be exported to a considerable amount; but the manufacture is said to have declined of late. The principal articles of manufacture besides those which we have enumerated, are leather, soap, tobacco, porcelain, ironware, and linen.

COMMERCE.

We have already remarked on the advantages which this capital possesses as a place of traffic. About the beginning of the last century, its commerce became considerable; yet though it continued afterwards to prosper, it did not increase rapidly until the war of the French revolution. The principal maritime countries of Europe were then involved in hostilities; but Denmark remained neutral, and enjoyed a lucrative carrying-trade, which extended not only through the European seas, but to India and China. A large quantity of business and capital was thus transferred to Copenhagen; and the advantages which the merchants of this city derived were very extensive. This commerce, however, together with the other branches of the Danish trade, was wholly destroyed by the hostilities which broke out in 1807 between Great Britain and Denmark. From that period till the end of the war, the mercantile interest of Denmark suffered severely; and it has never recovered the advantageous position which it previously held. At present the commerce of Copenhagen is not very considerable, and it has even recently declined. The imports into this capital are, anchors, pitch and tar, from Sweden and Norway,-flax, hemp, masts, sail-cloth and cordage, from Russia,-West India produce from the Danish possessions in the West Indies,-tobacco from America, wines and brandy from France. From England, the principal articles of direct import are, coal, earthenware, and salt, and in 1830, the quantity of coal sent was a hundred thousand tons, and of salt a million of bushels. The principal part of the trade between the Danish West India islands, (or rather St. Croix, which is the only one among them of value,) and the mother-country, is in the hands of the Copenhagen merchants; and the number of ships which arrived at the capital from St. Croix, in 1831, was twenty-three, of the aggregate burden of 5772 tons. The trade to the settlements in the East Indies is in the hands of an exclusive company, but so trifling in its amount, that only one ship has latterly sailed from Copenhagen in the year. The exports from this city consist chiefly of articles which are the produce of the soil, such as grain, butter, cheese, beef, pork, hides, horses, cattle, and rape-seed, of which a large quantity is sent to Holland