THE LONDON REVIEW, AND LITERARY JOURNAL, FOR SEPTEMBER 1802. QUID SIT PULCHRUM, QUID TURPE, QUID UTILE, QUID NON. A Journey from Edinburgh through Parts of North Britain: containing Remarks on Scottish Landicape; and Obfervations on Rural Economy, Natural Hillory, Manufactures, Trade, and Commerce; interfperfed with Anecdotes, Traditional, Literary, and Hiftorical, together with Biographi cal Sketches, relating chiefly to Civil and Ecclefiaftical Affairs, from the Twelfth Century down to the prefent Time. In Two Volumes, embellished with Forty-Four Engravings, from Drawings made on the Spot, of the Lake, River, and Mountain Scenery of Scotland. By Alexander Campbell. 4to.. Ε WE have not for a long time met with a literary work comprising fuch varied and ample information on pleafing, interefting, and inftructive fubjects, as the prefent; in which Mr. Campbell alternately difplays the talents of an artist and an antiquary, of a biographer and a poet, of a farmer, a botanist, and an hiftorian; and fo in artificially does he introduce the feve ral topics on which he profeffes to treat, as greatly to enhance the pleafure of the reader who accompanies him in his Tour. It appeared to our Author, notwithftanding the numerous writers that of late have directed their attention to the examination of the antiquities, natural history, peculiar cuftoms and manners, of the northern fection of our island, that many things had efcaped their diligence of refearch, which a native intimately acquainted with the claffic ground and hiftorical incidents thereto belonging (as well as with many traditionary particulars about to fink into that oblivion from which they are now fnatched), might have it in his power to examine more at leifure than any ftranger, how accurate foever, traveri ing hastily the various diftricts here defcribed. In collecting materials, he tells us, he has fpared neither time nor labour; and toward a proper felection and arrangement of what he deemed moft interesting and valuable, he has done all in his power. That the ftyle of Mr. Campbell's diction is varied as the variation of fubjects requires, we fhall fhow in the following extracts, selected at ran. dom: "Of the fuperftition of the ancient Celts, many have given an account. Of late, fuperftition has evidently de. clined in the Highlands and Western Ilands of Scotland. This can be accounted for in many ways, but chiefly by reafon of the propagation of the reformed religion, and the conftant communication of the low country with the highland diftricts. Formerly (and remains are yet obfervable) the fuperftitious rites of our highlanders confifted of a strange heterogeneous mixture of Pagan, Popith, Proteftant, and even fabulous obfervances, ludicrous in the extreme. To illuftrate this remark by a few examples. "It is maintained by all moralists and divines, that religion is natural to the human race. The politician, availing himself of this univerfally-received maxim, holds it up as a felf-evident propofition, and connects religion with civil eftablishments,-hence the union of Church and State. Anxiety about the future, and a dread of a fomewhat inexplicable as incomprehenfible, feem the foundation of gloomy fuperftition. In rude ftages of fociety, doubt and impenetrable obfcurity, with respect to events placed beyond the power of human prudence to controul or com mand, mand, lead the mind involuntarily captive, by the chain of grofs fuperftition, and debilitating fears which render the votary fufceptible of the wildest delufions of fupernatural mystery, and the dupe of the most extravagant pretenfions of prieftcraft. In almost every fection of the globe, fet forms refembling more or less the ceremonies of what is handed down to us as ancient Druidifin, are mentioned as having been univerfally prevalent in the more remote periods of fociety. It feems (as if inherent in the human mind) that man delights in being deceived. Hence the magic of the Druids gave place to the no lefs diabolical myfticisms of popish fuperftition. That the one was grafted on the other, most philofophers agree. To the Druids fucceeded the earlier miffionaries of the gofpel; and one fet of errors, through the imbecility of the credu lous, obtained in the place of others but little lefs palpable.” "Notwithstanding the diffufion of the gospel, to which caufe its minifters attribute the fall of heathenifh, and, in great measure, popish fuperftition, a belief in spectres, witches, fairies, brounies, and hobgoblins, is not alto gether extinguished in many parts of the Highlands and Western Iles. The old people feem greatly puzzled, and even shocked, at the infidelity of the young, and fee with the utmost concern their favourite doctrines vanish as the dawn of reafon advances. They lift up their eyes to heaven, and figh, deeply concerned for their degenerate offspring. "Religious perfecution was never heard of in the Highlands; and abstract fpeculations can hardly get footing where fuperftition is fo strangely mingled with pofitive inftitutions and eftablithed obfervances; the poor are more folicitous about the prefent than the future; and the richer fort of perfons are too indolent, and too much devoted to pleasure, to trouble themfelves farther than to fecure the momentary joy, and the repofe which a rude voluptuous race delight in. "The vast change which within the laft fifty years the inhabitants of the diftricts north of the Grampians have undergone, is hardly to be paralleled in the history of the human race. Averfe from fedentary habits, wherein VOL. XLII. SEPT. 1892. cool application and patient industry lead to reputation and reward,the quick, clear apprehenfions of the highlander found little relish for the refinements of civilized fociety and abftract fpeculations, and as little for the plodding drudgery of commercial employments, or any of the liberal profeffions, in which he is to be chained down for life. Perfonal activity was his delight. To face danger, regardless of hazard the most formidable, was to him mere paftime; and to acquire fame in arms, conftituted the chief object of his devotion at the fhrine of honour. The profound policy of the late Lord Chatham, in availing himself of this propenfity, is among the chief character. istics of that illuftrious ftatefman's adminiftration. But the fystem which he adopted gave a new and unexpected bias to the mind of the Highlander. He no fooner went abroad into the world, than he found of what confequence he was to the ftate. The defire of riches awakened in his foul ambition and a thirft of power. The meanest peafant's fon faw, with a heart palpitating with joy, that rank and fortune were, by a happy train of circumftances, placed within his reach; and that one day he might have it in his power to return home, and vie with the proud Chieftain himself in all the pomp and splendour of foreign climes, in eafe and affluence. Hence we may obferve the dawn of that change fo remarkable in the highlands of Scotland. Freed from hereditary jurifdiction, protected by the laws, and fenfible of that portion of freedom which has even reached thus far northward, the poorest highlander is now impreffed with an idea of his individual confequence to the community, and feeks emolument and honour beyond his native boundary, where he had been fecluded from the great world, which he fo much longed to fee and take an active part in. If he be driven from his native valley by ̈ others fomewhat more opulent, and greedy of poffeffing a greater portion of land than himself, he is cheered with the fond hope of returning with riches fufficient to purchase what formerly he was, on account of his poverty, obliged to relinquifh; and thus he. may, in his turn, difpofe of the fate of thofe who were the means of mak ing it neceffary for him to become the architect of his own fortune. Dd "Whether Whether, on the whole, emigration may not contribute to the advancement of human happiness, to the extenfion of commercial intercourfe, and to the diffufion of knowledge and the useful arts, is a confideration left to thofe whofe province it is to regulate the grand intereits of civilized life; but to be driven from home by oppreffion, under whatever denomination it be felt, is an evil from which it is natural to hope for relief by change of fituation, at a distance where the profpect of bettering our condition allures, and the hope of fuccefs invites to a new and leis precarious eftablish ment. "Within the last half century, the faple commodity of the Highlands and Western Islands was black cattle; but now theep have banished cattle; and would to heaven men had not shared the fame fate! The Hebrew fhep. herds were not holden in greater de testation among thofe nations whom they drove out from their paternal inheritance, than, till lately, the lowCountry thepherds were among the Highlanders; and every thing that belonged to a fhepherd's life was held in utter abhorrence, and confidered as beneath the dignity of a man to interfere in quite oppofite ideas however now generally prevail; even the gentleman of family and condition deigns to act the part of a fhepherd; and the paftoral life, at one time the occupation of the lowest of the people, is likely to be come as refpectable as when David the fon of Jeffe followed his father's fheep ere he had afcended the throne of Saul the fon of Kish, who, while in quest of his father's affes, was anointed king over Ifrael, being thus railed from the meaneft of the people, to be ruler over them. Such are the changes in human affairs; and fuch in all likelihood, tho' not precifely to the fame extent, eventually may take place in the wilds of North Britain! "The fpirit of speculation has fpread rapidly from valley to valley. An epidemic madness for theep grazing feems to rage with unabating tury. Rents within the last ten years have advanced beyond all former calculation; most parts of the Highlands are under theep; and the country has become defolate and almost drained of its native inhabitants. If this alarms not the state, there is little hope of a ftop being put to emigrations from the Highlands and Western Illand's. Whence will our armies be recruited! Where thall we find mariners to man our Navy, the bulwark of our island, the neglect of which would endanger our exiftence as a free, independent nation? If our fisheries perith through depopulation, and our mountains and vallies be peopled with thepherds, inftead of the hardy race of our Scottish highlanders, what will be the confequence? "Both fides of Loch-tay have expe rienced more than once the emigration of their inhabitants; and it is much to' be feared, that another, more numerous than any hitherto known, is, from circumftances too delicate to be touch ed on, about to take place, unless' prompt and conciliatory measures be adopted to mitigate the grievances (real or fuppofed it matters not) of which the Braidalbane people loudly complain. "A fet of more contented and thriving tenantry than were to be found on the vaft demefnes of the Braidalbane family hardly existed any where, till a change of fyftem (which commenced in the life-time of the late Earl, who all acknowledge was a good landlord,) reduced the poorer tenants, the offspring of former vatsals,' either to emigrate, or toil year after year on the iterile faces of thefe ftu pendous mountains, in order to make up a rent exacted with the utmolt ri gour, whatever became of their live Rock, their wives, and their children.' Is this oppreffion? "The disturbances that lately took place in Rofs-fhire were occafioned by converting a number of fmall farms into a few extensive sheep-walks. Upwards of thirty poor families, each of whom had inherited the fmall Du chas from father to fon, without interruption, for many generations, were turned adrift on the world, and their poffeffions let to fhepherds who had come from a diftant part of the kingdom. Was it any wonder then, that, in the first paroxyfms of difappoint ment and defpair, thefe wretched wanderers, ere they took their departure from the fcene of their nativity and earlier part of life, committed unwarrantable exceffes. which indignation prompted, and which reafon, appalled, knew not how to expiate? The law of the land violated, established order broken, what was to be done? Shalf it it be recorded, that thefe deluded Scottish historians "The Raid of Ruthe wretches fuffered the punishment due ven." The former piece of history to their crimes! What ftrange infa- carries with it an air of the marvellous, tuation is it that binds the Highlander and is fhortly as follows: Ruthven to the heath-clad wilds through which houfe confifts of two fquare towers, he fo fondly delights to. wander ? joined now by lefs elevated buildings. Early affociations, habit, and, above The interval between the towers is all, ignorance of a more fruitful foil called "The Maiden's leap," from, as it and more genial climate, may, in part, is faid, a daughter of the firft Earl of account for fo irresistible an inclina- Gowrie having, in the fear of difco. tion to remain on the spot on which he very, leaped from the top of the one first drew breath. Of this propensity, tower to the top of the other, a space why fhould fuch cruel advantage be of more than three yards, over a chafin taken, as to raise the price to fo enor- fixty feet in depth. This young lady, mous a pitch, for permiffion to toil according to report, was tenderly befor a miferable fubfiftence? It is loved by a youth, her inferior in rank afferted, that the more the Highland and fortune: yet love, that knows no er's rent is advanced, the more dili diftin Stion but the charms it pants af gently will he ftrive to realize it; and ter, and is covetous of nothing fave that thus the full value of thefe barren the deligned object, induced her to conwaites is fecured to the owners, while trive means for entertaining her lover the riches of the community are aug-in the full enjoyment of mutual affec. mented. It may be fo; but, furely, this is buying one's comforts at a dear rate, to lay no worse of it.. "Several judicious hints have been thrown out with regard to putting a top to the evil confequences of rackrent, as it is called, in the Highlands and Western Islands. Thele hints, however, have thared the fate of fuch effufions as philanthropy fuggefts, and rapacity fmiles at, while fecure in its exactions, fanctioned by authority, and Supported by the laws. It appears, then, that it refts with the Legiflature to redress the grievances here pointed out; and let the hope be indulged, that the day is not far diftant, when a British Senate will deliberate on the beit means of preventing emigrations from the highlands of Scotland." After fome interefting remarks on Macbeth's castle of Dunfinnan, and the fate of "Belly Bell and Mary Gray," we find the following incidents relative to Ruthven castle. All "The next place deferving of a vifit is Ruthven Cafle, or, as it is now called, Huntingtower, the refidence of the un fortunate family of Gowrie. around this ancient edifice has an air of folemn grandeur, fomewhat formal and gloomy. The avenues leading to it are in ftraight lines, formed of tall and aged trees, agreeably to the tafte of the times in which they were planted. Two paffages of history are connected with Ruthven cattle, the one traditional, and the other well known by a transaction which took place in the year 1582, denominated by our tion. It happened, however, that our lovers were fufpected, and eventually betrayed. Little dreading the embar raffinent of an unpropitious discovery, one night, as they lay fecure, as they thought, in each other's arins, the bluhing maid, hearing her mother's footsteps as the afcended the fair, with a prelence of mind and refolution. fcarcely credible, fprang from her lover's arms, flew with the swiftnes of a dove across the leads of the tower, darted from the battlements of the one tower to thofe of the other, and ftole foftly and unperceived into her own apartment. The furprife, fhame, and agreeable difappointment of the mother when he perceived the error into which the had been led, can be enfier conceived than defcribed. Haftening to her daughter's bed-chamber, the found her, to appearance, locked fat in the arms of leep! An experiment of the kind juft related was not to be repeated by the enamoured fair one, nor could the lovers live separate. They eloped, and were married: and next night paffed, free from apprehenfion, in the full confummation of their mutual defires. "The Raid of Ruthven," fo called from the circumftance of James VI. (on his return from Athol,) being invited by William Earl of Gowrie to enjoy his favourite amufement hunting, makes a diftinguished era in the history of the reign of that monarch. James, finding himself encompassed in a manner be least expected, and alarmed at the number of strangers that he ob Dd 2 ferved the establishment of the Reformed Religiont. "But the King's captivity was not of long continuance. On his arrival in Edinburgh, "the folemnity of his reception was characteristic of the manners of the times. He was met by the minifters of Edinburgh. The whole proceffion walked up the streets finging a pfalm expreffive of their critical efcape from danger, and the great deliverance they had obtained by the captivity and fubjection of the King. The news of James's confinement spread all over Europe; they even pierced the walls of her prifon, and reached the ears of the unfortunate Mary, whofe maternal feelings they Meantime extremely agitated §." Lennox, a Frenchman by birth, was banished, and foon after retired to his native country, where he died. Arran was forbidden to appear at court. However, after being in this state of bondage about ten months, James found means to escape, and threw himfelf into the hands of his former friends, with whom he acted in concert; and Gowrie, by the intrigues of Arran, was foon after led to the fcaffold. The latter, in his turn, after a feries of crimes, fell a facrifice to the refentment of James Douglafs of Parkhead, who flew the degraded Arran in revenge of his uncle the Earl of Morton's death. Thus we have exhibited the rude manners of the times, when faction ruined faction, and a constant struggle fubfifted between the Popish lords and the Proteftant nobility, between the Clergy of the Reformed Church and the Proteftant King: the crown claiming the fupremacy in all cafes fpiritual as well as temporal; and the clergy ftrenuously afterting, that King Jefus, and not King James, (nor any other earthly prince, confitently with the word of God,) was head of the church in all things fpiritual ||, if not temporal. ferved around him, having in his own train a force inadequate to any fudden emergency, had recourse to prudence ; and, concealing his apprehenfion, with an caly air of cheerfulness and gaiety he talked of nothing but hunting and fubjects connected with the pleasures of the field; thinking, by these means, to elude any defign of feizing his perfon, and to embrace the first favourable moment for making his efcape. The bufinefs of the next day being agreed on, the King, early in the morning, as he was about to rife, to his amazement found his bed-chamber filled with the nobles who were in the fecret of his detention at Ruthven caftle. The aftonished monarch demanded the reafon of this intrufion; when the nobles in a body prefented a memorial, wherein were contained remonftrances against certain alleged illegal and oppreffive actions of the Duke of Lennox and the Earl of Arran, two of the King's inti. mate friends and known advifers. The mask thus thrown off by the confpirators, did not induce his majefty to act equally open: on the contrary, he feemed to ponder these weighty af'fairs in his mind, and, with well-feign ed condefcenfion, expressed a defire to proceed immediately to Edinburgh: but, on being rudely ftopped by the "Maifter of Glamis," the timid James burst into tears. "Better children weept, than bearded men," said Glamis, with a fierce look and audacious tone; which words thrilled through the heart of the trembling monarch, who felt himself humbled in the dust. Without regard to his weakness, and intent on their purpose, the rebel lords difmiffed, without further ceremony, fuch of his train as entered not into their views, and by all the winning arts peculiar to courtiers they ftrove to reconcile the King to his fplendid captivity; in this they fucceeded, so far as to procure pardon for themselves, and James's fanction to the measures which they vigorously adopted in pursuit of the great object of their enterprize "The hall is ftill thewn where James and his nobles were entertained during * See Melvill's Memoirs, p. 240, 241. I Spottiswood's Hift. p. 320. Robertson's Hift. vol. ii. p. 95. Still fo much of the ancient fpirit of independence is kept up in the General Affeinbly of the Kirk of Scotland, that, as foon as his Majefty's Commiffioner diffolves the meeting in the King's name, the Moderator riles and difmiffes the Aflembly in the name of the Lord Jefus Chrift, Supreme Head of the Church. his |