nail brush. Staius of nitrate of silver | of spirit of turpentine; wet a woollen may be removed from the hands by means of a solution of chloride of iron. To Clean Plate.-Take an ounce each of cream of tartar, muriate of soda, and alum, and boil in a gallon or more of water. After the plate is taken out and rubbed dry, it puts on a beautiful silvery whiteness. Powdered magnesia may be used dry for articles slightly tarnished, but if very dirty it must be used first wet and then dry. To Clean Brass or Copper.Take 1 oz. of oxalic acid, 6 oz. rottenstone, oz. gum arabic, all in powder, 1 oz. sweet oil, and sufficient of water to make a paste. Apply a small portion, and rub dry with a flannel or leather. Cleaning Brass Inlaid Work. -Mix tripoli and linseed oil, and dip felt into the preparation. With this polish. If the wood be rosewood or ebony, polish it with finely-powdered elder ashes, or make a polishing paste of rotten-stone, a pinch of starch, sweet oil, and oxalic acid, mixed with water. rag with some of this and put on it a little powder, made thus :-Take 2 oz. green copperas and oz. subcarbonate of potash, burn these together in a clay vessel for a quarter of an hour in the fire, when it should be reduced to an impalpable powder for use. Having put the powder in the oiled part of the rag, well rub the metal; wipe off with a soft cloth, and polish with a dry leather and some more powder. Cleaning Jewellery.-Common jewellery may be effectually cleaned by washing with soap and warm water, rinsing in cold water, dipping in spirits of any kind, and drying in warm boxwood saw-dust. Good jewellery only needs washing with soap and water, and polishing with rouge and a chamois leather. Cleaning Engravings. - Put the engraving on a smooth board, cover it thinly with common salt finely pounded; squeeze lemon-juice upon the salt so as to dissolve a considerable porSilver Cleaning Liquid.—Pre- tion of it; elevate one end of the board, pared chalk, 8 oz.; turpentine, 2 oz.; alco- so that it may form an angle of about hol, 1 oz.; spirits of camphor, 4 drachms; 45 or 50 degrees with the horizon. liquor of ammonia, 2 drachms. Apply Pour on the engraving boiling water with a sponge and allow to dry before from a tea-kettle, until the salt and polishing. Or use a solution of cyanide lemon-juice be all washed off; the enof potassium, 12 oz. cyanide to 1 quart graving will then be perfectly clean, water; immerse the silver, brush it with and free from stains. It must be dried a stiff brush until clean, wash and dry. on the board, or on some smooth surface, Cleaning Steel Articles.-Un- | gradually. If dried by the fire or the sun, slacked lime is a capital thing to clean it will be tinged with a yellow colour. steel articles with. If steel ear-rings, brooches, &c., are kept in powdered quick-White paste, used for white crayons lime they suffer very little from rust. They should be carefully cleaned when put away, to remove any moisture that may have collected on them by handling. To clean swords, &c., rub them with powdered brick-dust and oil, rub dry with brick-dust, polish with crocus and leather. Cleaning Hats.-The stains of grease and paint may be removed from hats by means of turpentine, and if the turpentine leaves a mark finish with a little spirits of wine. Crayons, Method of Making. or for a body for other colours:-1. Washed pipe-clay and washed chalk equal parts, mix them into a paste with sweet ale made hot, and with a chip or two of isinglass dissolved in it. 2. Take the finest powder of calcined oyster-shells, sifted through muslin, mix it up with water in which a little rice and a little white sugar-candy has been boiled; according to the quantity of rice, so will be the hardness of the crayon. The quantity of sugar-candy Cleaning Metals.-Mix half a should not be more than the size of a pint of neat's-foot oil, and half a gallon | filbert-nut to a pint of water. effect. Crayons, COLOURS FOR.- White.The best whites to employ are whiting or prepared chalk, pipe-clay, alum white or alumina, oyster-shell white, calcined bones, &c. 3. Take common pipe-clay in powder, | an allowance must be made for this mix it up into a paste with very strong soapsuds, made thus:-Cut up an ounce of white soap into small shavings, dissolve it over the fire in pint of water, stir into the mixture while hot the powdered pipe-clay as long as you can stir it. Spirits of wine added before the powders to render the soap-water transparent, is an improvement. 4. Take 3 oz. of spermaceti, dissolve it in 1 pint of water, stir into it a quantity of fine-sifted or washed white colour till of a proper consistence. If to be mixed with dark powders, a very little ox-gall is an improvement. 5. Melt 3 oz. of shellac in 2 oz. of spirits of wine, this will form a thick liquid; to this add 6 parts of pipe-clay and 1 part of oil of turpentine; grind all well together. The lighter the colour of the shellac the better; also if colours are to be added they should be ground up with the turpentine, before this added to the rest. The great object of attention is to procure the white chalk or pipe-clay without grit. To accomplish this, take a large vessel of water, put the whiting into it and mix well, pour off the top into another vessel, and throw the gritty sediment away; repeat several times. When this is done, let the whiting settle, and then pour the water from it and dry it for use. The compositions for white crayons and the requisite colours being prepared, and that chosen made up into a stiff paste, it is to be placed upon a smooth slab of marble slightly oiled. The paste is rolled out with a rolling pin, then cut into slips and these rolled into cylinders by the aid of a little flat piece of wood, then cut to the length of 3 inches each, and placed in a slow oven or drying stove to become hard. Instead of rolling the composition, it may be forced through the nozzle of a tin funnel, this is better for the delicate colours than rolling them; when dry they may be pointed. It will always happen that except in black or white crayons, the colour alters very much in drying, so that in mixing Carmine and Lake.-Crayons of these colours are generally hard; when made with powdered colours, the proper way of mixing is to dissolve the colour first in water or spirits of wine, and add it to nearly-dry white colour, grinding the whole well together. There should be four or five shades-madder is not used. Vermilion and Red Lead, Red Ochre, Indian Red.-Each of these may be well ground in water, and when wet, mixed well with the white in different shades. These will make various reds, as well as salmon colour, flesh colour, orange Hæmatite or crocus, of itself, ground and mixed with a little size, forms au excellent crayon. The square chalks, or crayons, are made of the mineral red chalk, or ochre cut into slips with a saw. The same material is used in pencils for carpenters and others. Yellows. Dissolve the colours, which are Naples yellow, King's yellow, and yellow lake, in spirits of wine, and mix as for carmine. The chrome yellows are not so useful, because less durable. Gamboge, Indian yellow, and gall stone are not employed, but the various yellow ochres make good crayons. Blue. A good soluble colour is Prussian blue, but it is hard to grind. Dissolve it in water, then put the solution in a hole cut in a piece of chalk, this will absorb the water, and leave a great portion of the colour ready for mixing. Blue verditer is a good bright colour, but is so gritty as to require washing, as recommended for whiting. The same may be said of smalts or cobalt. Browns. These are Cologne earth, umber, raw and burnt; sienna, raw and burnt; treated as the blue. Greens. These may be either simple colours, as emerald green, Prussian green, green carbonate of copper; or better formed by adding the compositions of the yellow and blue crayons together. | Raw and burnt sienna may also be used in combination with Prussian blue or indigo. Good green crayons are more difficult to make than those of any other colour. Black.-Chalk or charcoal is first to be sawed in 3-inch lengths, free from knots; then saw them longitudinally in narrow strips. Procure a tin trough about 4 inches by 3, and partly fill it with white wax; and after properly melted, the pieces of charcoal are to be saturated for forty-eight hours, and after draining they are fit for use. When white paste is employed the only powdered colour to be used is lampblack, all the others are apt to get mouldy. Mixed Colours.-Mixed or half colours are produced by an admixture of the colours required in the paste. Thus a combination of blue and carmine produces a purple; the yellows and red united form orange; black and carmine is a beautiful tint for shading; vermilion and black form a fine rich brown; green and brown form an olive colour; and red and brown a chocolate. CRAYONS FOR DRAWING ON GLASS.Melt together equal quantities of asphaltum and yellow wax; add lampblack, and pour the mixture into moulds for crayons. The glass should be well wiped with leather, and in drawing be careful not to soil the glass with the fingers. In trimming these crayons, if the edge be bevelled, like scissors, the point may easily be rendered very fine. logwood, put off the boil, and decant the clear liquor into a large tub; add 1 lb. of white soap; enter, and winch for 30 or 40 minutes in this; lift; wash in 2 waters, and you will have a brilliant jet black. JET BLACK from Nitrate of Iron.— For 200 yards. After being cleaned, prepare in a cold solution of nitrate of iron, 5° Twaddle (this is strong enough for light silks, 4° or 44° will do for dark and dipping silks); 30 minutes in this; lift; boil 14 lbs. fustic; put off the boil; enter, and winch 30 minutes; lift; wash in 3 waters, blood-warm; then boil 16 lbs. logwood; decant as before; give the same quantity of soap, and finish in the same way. BLACK from Sulphate of Iron.-For 200 yards. After being cleaned or scalded, discharge in a hot vitriol sour; a cold and then a warm water out of the sour; run through another scald, and 2 warm waters; then boil 14 lbs. fustic; put off the boil; winch 30 minutes, and lift for saddening; make up a solution with some of the fustic left in the last process, and 1 lb. copperas; winch in this for half an hour; wash in 3 waters; dye with 16 lbs. logwood and 1 lb. of soap. HAT BLACK.-Work 5 lbs. silk in a mixture of 2 lbs. fustic chips; 1 lb. quercitron bark; lift; then add 6 oz. verdigris, 6 oz. copperas; work for quarter of an hour, and hang up all night; wash and dye with a decoction of 5 lbs. logwood with as much white as will make a lather. DYEING SHOTS.-When satins, satinets, sarsenets, or silks of any kind are found to contain shots, that is, warp and Dyeing Silk.-For dyeing purposes we may consider that a pound of silk woven into common sarsenet, measures about 13 yards: this multi-weft of different qualities, they must be plied by 16, gives 208; or for a more convenient standard, we may calculate 200 yards at 16 lbs., 100 at 8 lbs., and prepared as follows:-For 100 yards. Dissolve 1 lb. salt of tartar in a copper containing 150 gallons boiling water; winch in this one hour; lift, and wash in 2 waters; and then prepare for any colour. If, after dyeing black, brown, or any colour, the silk is found to contain a shot of different silk, it must be discharged to the bottom, and put through the stuff as directed above; then prepare a new, for whatever colour required. CINNAMON BROWN.-For 100 yards. Boil 12 lbs. fustic; 3 lbs. ground madder, 2 lbs. barwood. Cool to 200° Fahrenheit, then enter, and winch 20 minutes; air out, and repeat; with a little of the liquor in another dish, sadden to pattern with 4 or 5 oz. copperas, 1 or 2 shots; wash in 2 waters, and dry. OLIVE BROWN.-For 10 yards. Boil fustic, 1 lb.; logwood, 34 oz.; cudbear, 2 oz. Cool to 200° Fahrenheit; enter, and winch for 20 minutes; air out; repeat; sadden to pattern with 4 oz. copperas; wash and dry. FRENCH BROWN.-Prepare in a hot solution of alum, for 10 or 12 hours; lift, and wash in 2 waters; boil or scald. For 10 yards. Limawood, 1 lb.; ground fustic, 4 oz. Decant the clear of both liquors into another dish; enter, and winch for 30 minutes; air out, and repeat; if dark enough, wash in 2 waters, and dry. Common brown is done in this way by adding a little logwood. In preparing this and the following colour, a little copperas is sometimes used along with the alum; when done in this manner, raise slightly with muriate of tin. CLARET.-Prepare with alum like the last; boil or scald. For 10 yards. Limawood, 1 lb.; logwood, 3 oz. Decant the clear of both liquors into a tub of sufficient size; enter, and winch for 30 minutes; air out, and repeat; when dark enough, wash and dry. In dyeing the two last, they ought to get two liquors, or the liquor at twice, as one will hardly make the colour as full as it ought to be. PALE BLUE.-For 100 yards. 3 oz. paste or extract of indigo; 6 oz. tartaric acid. Sour first in a hot solution of sulphuric acid (about 14 gill), lift, and wash in 1 water. Prepare the paste and dissolve the acid in a little hot water; then take a copper or stoneware vessel of sufficient size, fill it nearly full of water, 110° Fahrenheit; put in the paste, and 5 parts of the tartaric acid; winch in this 15 minutes; lift; wash in cold water; harden with the part of tartaric not used; lift, and dry. In dyeing printed silks, containing black or any colour you wish to retain, they must not be soured in dyeing, and use as little raising as possible. TO PREPARE EXTRACT OF INDIGO.Every particle must be well broken with a palette knife, or the back of a tablespoon, after which pour on a little boiling water; stir it up, and let it settle for a little before using. ROYAL BLUE.-Prepare in a solution of nitrate of iron, 3° Twaddle, 100° Fahrenheit; and for every pound of prussiate used in dyeing, add as much of the crystals of tin (dissolved in hot water) to the preparation; work in this till the silk turns a light buff colour; lift, and wash in 1 water; after which, for 100 yards, dissolve 4 lbs. prussiate of potash in a little boiling water; put this into a copper containing 80 gallons water, 120° Fahrenheit; add 14 gill sulphuric or muriatic acid; enter in this; winch 15 minutes; lift; 1 water; run again through the preparation; add 2 gills sulphuric acid to the prussiate; repeat in it, and if not dark enough, lift, and add a little nitrate of iron; after getting it to the required shade, give 2 waters; then harden in a solution of alum; and dry in a hot stove. PEA GREEN.-For 100 yards. 10 oz. extract of indigo, 2 lbs. ebony, 1 lb. alum. Sour first; wash in 1 water; boil or scald the ebony; decant the clear into another dish, and add the extract of indigo and alum; enter in this, and winch for 10 or 15 minutes; wash in 1 water. COMMON PALE GREEN.-For 11 yards. Extract of indigo, 2 oz.; ebony, 13 oz.; alum, 1 oz.; sulphuric acid, 1 oz. Work as for Pea Green. GRASS GREEN.-For 10 yards. Fustic, 12 oz.; extract of indigo, 3 oz. 3 drachms; alum, 3 oz. 3 drachms; sulphuric acid, 1 oz. Boil the fustic first; then add the extract of indigo, alum, and acid; put off the boil; enter and winch till you get the shade required; if not blue enough, give more extract of indigo; if not yellow enough, more fustic. MYRTLE GREEN. For 10 yards. Fustic, 1 lb.; logwood, 3 oz. 3 drachms; extract of indigo, 3 oz. 3 drachms; bluestone, oz. Boil the logwood and fustic together; put off the boil; enter; winch 20 minutes; air out and repeat; raise with 3 oz. bluestone dissolved in the boiler; then give the extract of indigo; 1 water; rince in the remaining 2 oz. bluestone; harden in a solution of alum, and dry. OLIVE GREEN.-For 100 yards. 10 lbs. fustic, 2 lbs. logwood, 10 oz. camwood. Boil altogether for 30 minutes; put off the boil; enter and winch for 20 minutes; air out and repeat; sadden with 3 or 4 oz. copperas in the same liquor, or with a little of the liquor in another dish; when the required shade is got, wash and dry. DRAB. For 100 yards. Boil 4 lbs. fustic and 6 oz. logwood; 2 oz. cudbear; 1 oz. copperas. Cool to 200° Fahrenheit; enter; winch 20 minutes; air out; repeat; then take a little of the liquor out of the boiler, dissolve the copperas, reduce it to handling heat with water, and give 1 or 2 shots through it as the pattern requires; 1 water out of the saddening; then give a warm, but weak sour, to clear the colour; wash in 2 waters, and dry. Before using cudbear, it must always be drenched with a little hot water, to the consistency of paste; then scald or boil it as occasion may require. FAWN.-For 10 yards. Fustic, 6 oz.; cudbear, oz.; copperas, 1 drachm. Use as for Drab. STONE.-For 100 yards. 3 lbs. fustic, 7 oz. logwood, 2 oz. cudbear, 2 oz. copperas. Use as for Drab. SLATE. For 100 yards. 8 oz. cudbear, 2 lbs. logwood, 1 lb. tartar. Bottom with the cudbear; lift; boil the logwood; decant into a tub of sufficient size; enter and winch in this for 15 minutes; lift and raise with the tartar at twice, then wash and dry. STRAW. For 10 yards. Annatto, 6 drachms; barks, 14 oz.; muriate of tin, 12 oz. Give the annatto on the bottom 212° Fahrenheit; 1 water out, and then give the barks and muriate of tin, same heat. Before using annatto, it must be boiled with half its weight of American ashes, in the least possible quantity of soft 9 drachms; fustic, 6 oz.; madder, 61 drachms; cudbear, 34 drachms. Bottom with the annatto, 212° Fahrenheit; wash in 1 water; boil the fustic, madder, and cudbear together; put off the boil, and enter; winch 15 minutes; if not full enough, air out and repeat; then wash and dry. SALMON COLOUR.-For 10 yards. Annatto, 14 oz. ; cudbear, 4 drachms. Boil the annatto; then add the cutbear; put off the boil; enter and winch 30 minutes; wash in 2 waters; then dry. ORANGE.-For 10 yards. Annatto, 13 oz.; bark, 1 oz.; muriate of tin, 1 oz. Give a good body of annatto, 212° Fahrenheit; wash in 1 water; then top with the bark and muriate of tin. AMBER. For 10 yards. Annatto, 1 2 oz.; bark, 1 oz.; muriate of tin, oz. Bottom with the annatto, and top with the bark and muriate of tin. Use as for Orange. Put PINK.-For 10 yards. Bottoming, blue archil, oz.; dyeing, safflower, 2 oz.; raising, tartaric acid, oz. the archil into 100 gallons boiling water; winch in this 15 minutes; lift; bleed; then refine the safflower with cotton; make up a safflower liquor of 100 gallons; enter and winch 15 minutes; lift; put in half the raising; return and winch 10 minutes; lift again and add the other half of the raising; return for 10 minutes more; then wash in 1 water; harden with a little tartaric in another, and dry. Rose colour may be made in this way, by giving more stuff. |