we were at the entrance of Grand Cairo. The gar-, right side. We did so, and saw the water at an dens seemed laid out in splendid style. Further immense distance below, and this was being on we passed on the right bank of the river, the brought up in numbers of very small pitchers, palace, the gardens, and the harem of Ibrahim which were attached to a wheel and towed Pasha. After this we saw the palace of Vizier upwards to the plain above. From this place Ali Bey-a fine and striking building. As we we went to the Turkish bazaar, where we were sailed towards the centre of the city we saw, on conducted through long large lofty arcades, quite our left, the pyramids, which at the distance clean and orderly. The shops were on the mud of more than ten miles seemed only a few floor. In these were laid out every variety of fields off from us. These are the pyramids of oriental costume. The dealers were all Turks, Djizeh, which I was most anxious to visit. and each one that we saw was smoking a long pipe. They were paler and fairer than any orientals I ever saw, and even more so than Europeans who have lived long in eastern countries. Here I know that many travellers in visiting Egypt are most interested in what relates to the manners, customs, religion, and character of the present inhabitants. They are fully described by Lane, but for myself I reflected upon the fact that in no country whatever are the posterity of the aboriginal inhabitants more completely extirpated than in this-that the barbarian invaders have quite supplanted the original occupiers; and that of the population, which numbers three millions, two million seven hundred thousand are Arabs, and the remaining three hundred thousand are Copts, or, as they term the inhabitants of all other parts of Europe, Franks. So, in traversing the country, my interest was principally arrested by he remains of ancient buildings, and not in the policy of the government, or the work of that tyrannical despot who had endeavoured to convert the land into a workshop for his monopolizing manufactories, and the people into hired bondsmen. We next went to the slave-market. we saw about fifty Nubian girls, hideously ugly, but very stoutly made, and having beautiful teeth, Some of them dressed, and sitting in an inner chamber, but the greater number of them nearly naked, standing on a large platform waiting for purchasers to come and release them. Their average age I should suppose was about sixteen. We then passed onwards to see the citadel and palace. We were conducted through a series of fine and spacious halls built of Egyptian marble halls of state, rooms for hearing causes and petitions and dealing decrees of justice, bathing-rooms and kitchens. The chambers which were appropri ated for purposes of state or for sitting in, had a divan with seats made of soft cotton disposed close to the wall on each side of We landed in the afternoon about the centre the chamber, except on that side from which of the city, and had a most unpleasant and one enters, and there was a recess at this dirty ride to Bouliah, where the hotel at which entrance where all visitors placed their shoes. we stopped is situated. Certainly Cairo is a This was covered with scarlet cloth. We were very grand city when viewed at a distance, but shewn the square in which the Mamelukes the narrowness and the incommodiousness of were massacred, as also the two heights down the streets are truly Eastern. The streets re- which the only surviving Mameluke leaped his minded me much of Benares. When we got horse and escaped. The first height is fifty to the hotel we found that the English steamer feet and the next forty. This individual surappointed to take passengers down to Alex-vived many years afterwards. We were shown andria in time to reach the steamer which the garden to the palace. Here I principally went from there to England, was to sail at observed the rosemary which bordered the night; so I determined, in compnay with another walks. We saw the spacious Mosque of marble of our party, to stay in Cairo, and go by the with its lofty pillars. When first one views a vessel which should leave Alexandria in a fort- Saracenic building of this kind, it strikes one night's time. This was a French steamer-in from its imposing effect; but there is a very fact, I could not reconcile it to myself to leave great sameness in all mosques, and those of Egypt, and not to see the pyramids. The next Agra and Dilli remain now impressed most day we went out to visit some of the sights of vividly in my memory as the specimens where Cairo. We went first to see the managerie. I the "Pride of Islam" shows itself most connoticed here a Rhinoceros larger than any that spicuously. I had ever seen in India and having two horns: lions, tigers, hyenas in numbers. From thence we went to see Joseph's well. This was dug by the great Saladin. It is 270 feet deep and 45 feet in circumference. When we reached the entrance, two little girls with two wax tapers, came up to us, and, striking a match lit them; and stepping backwards, as the military have it, they went down through a cold, winding corridor, followed by the guide and ourselves. When we had got down about 100 feet, by a gradual descent the guide told us to look downwards on the abyss to our 1 We had a long ride back to our hotel through narrow streets of houses for the most part five stories high, but I did not see any street that was broader than a narrow lane in a European town. Of beasts of burden, we saw great numhers of camels, and donkeys were innumerable. We were mounted on them ourselves, and they were in general use here. Every now and then we met what seemed to us to be a small tent of dark black silk framed with bamboos, and mounted on a large donkey. When this approached, we saw a white object inside, and above the white figure, merely the eyes of a T female whose head was covered with a white | stone benches in the vault, and slept. Certainly cloth. This was a woman of respectability. the very great heat rendered our cool place of When the wife of a grandee goes out either to resting not ineligible, and we soon forgot our visit or to stay, she is attended by a whole fatigues in sleep. cavalcade of women thus mounted. We met many troopers dressed in Turkish costume; long surtout coats, fez caps, and long beards. The soldiers of the infantry were dressed in white, and carried muskets with burnished steel barrels, and swords. we The next morning the guides and a good many supernumeraries attended upon us punctually. The number of amateurs who congregate round an English party on an occasion of this kind, is well known by travellers in the east. We had also boys and girls carrying pitchers of water, of whose supply we were ere long glad to avail ourselves. We found on nearly 12 feet high, but as we ascended they gradually were lower in height. The ascent was by means of steps cut in the solid stone, but I do not think that an Englishman of the greatest activity could have managed it in any thing like time to see the sun rise without the aid of the Arabs. It was by their seizing our arms and assisting our spring, every step, that we managed to proceed. Whenever we came to a winding nook we were, notwithstanding this help, glad to rest. The labour of the task was greater than any which I had ever undergone in the way of climbing. When we had reached about half way up this pyramid of Cheops, by much the largest pile of any of them, it was the first dawn of morning. As I was proceeding to lay my hand on one of the large stones, previous to making a spring upward, my hand was arrested by an Arab who was by my side, and he together with another, who was also near, screamed out loudly and called out something in Arabic. As I did not understand his language or his cause for fear-it being dusk, he seized my hand and put it in his mouth, pointing to something which in the vague indistinct light of the dawn, looked like a long stick lying on the part of the stone furthest from where we were. I stopped then and both men renewed their shouts, and then it was that I saw the object, which I supposed to be a stick, glide down rapidly through the stones which lay loosely on the other side of the pyramid; and I found that I had been mercifully preserved from almost certain death, as the reptile was a cobra di capello. Before reaching the top of the pyramid, we were both obliged to sit down being quite exhausted. At the summit there is a level of about 20 feet square, and there we found numbers of Arabs assembled, and our friends the water-carriers amongst them. We were in time to see the sun rise, and though it was rather a cloudy morning, we had a most extensive view. From the height of the pyramid and the very level nature of the ground for many miles round, as also from a peculiarity in the atmosphere of Egypt which makes objects in the distance appear much nearer than they are; one may easily fancy what a panorama was opened to us. The Nile, that most magnificent river, which The next day, the 17th of June, my fellow-traveller and myself set off to the pyramids of Djizeh. The only way of cross-reaching the base that the lower stones were ing the plain, which lay between us and these buildings, and stretched along a distance of eleven miles, was by riding donkeys, so procured them. We first crossed the Nile in boats, and then, after riding over the distance, ❘ arrived at some vaults and stone huts. These seem to be meant for the accommodation of visitors to the pyramids, and are but a few yards from them. The vaults were cut in the rock. Some of them were inhabited by a few wild-looking Arabs, who apparently earn their subsistence by what they get from travellers, to whom they render most able assistance both in climbing up and in penetrating into the pyramids. We resolved, as it was getting late in the evening, to go into the pyramid of Cheops first. Accordingly, we engaged the assistance of three Arabs, and went to the entrance. First we had to clamber a height formed of the huge colossal stones, which are at the base of the vast pile, until we came to a cavern, which we entered by stooping nearly down to our knees. The guide preceded us holding candles. We then ascended an acclivity which was very steep, but not of course impassible for an able-bodied man; however, I was very glad to take the Arab's hands. These kept dragging and shoving us and shouting out at every step, and led us through the long winding and dismal passage, where we were all the way obliged to stoop very low till we reached a large and lofty chamber built of stone in the very centre or penetralia of this extraordinary building; the vault where the mummy of Cheops was said to have been deposited, now only a hollow stone vault. There was a stone sarcophagus lying by the side of one of the vaults in which they told us the mummy had been laid, but that on opening it "not a pinch of dust remained of Cheops." We commenced then our work of descent, and on our way back we entered another chamber. The Arabs called this the salt chamber, from the particles of saline matter similar to alum, which were attached to the walls: every stone in it was encrusted with them. This was also called the Queen's chamber by some, but antiquaries differ much as to nomenclature and history with regard to these pyramids. We were glad to return after this to our vault in the rock and to eat the frugal supper which we had brought with us from Cairo. After having refreshed ourselves, we warned the guides to awaken us some time before sunrise the next morning. We then spread our cloaks on the "Winds in progressive Majesty along," stretching as far as the eye could reach was in the centre, the chief feature, and to the south a vast plain, in fact, nearly a desert. To the west lay a long range comprising the small mounds which covered tombs where the Egyptians buried their dead. On the east was Grand Cairo in all its splendour, its palaces, its mosques, and suburbs; to the north, the eye in gazing upon this vast plain recognized the scene in which Napoleon harangued his invincible army and prefaced his days of brilliant achievements by telling them, in pointing to the pyramids, that thirty centuries were looking on at their deeds of arms. We found the descent much easier, and when we were at the base of the pyramid, we were surrounded by a crowd of Arabs who came to show us the body of the snake, which one of the party had succeeded in killing with a stone. This was the large snake which we were so near to on the pyramid. Amidst all the vociferation I found it difficult to ascertain who was the boy that had killed it; but on finding it out, I gave him a reward, and the jumping, laughter, and clamour that ensued was wonderful. They all assembled and began actually acting the scene which had occurred early in the morning, and seemed to derive the greatest delight from doing so. While they were engaged in their antics, we walked round the pyramids leisurely to give ourselves an idea of their vast size and appearance. As I mentioned, the one which bears the name of Cheops is much the largest of all, being in height 480 feet, the massiveness, the colossal structure, the mysterious character, is what one sees only in this land of wonders. We then went to see the vast pile of granite, called the sphinx. We found all but the shoulder, breast and head buried in sand. But such a wonderful size are those members, that the head seemed at least 15 feet high. The nose, eyes, and mouth are still in preservation, the cheeks and ears much warped by time. I am not going to add another guess to the many that are made relative to the intention of the builders who reared these enormous structures. I think it is almost impossible to convey to the mind of another the impression which one forms on viewing the wondrous objects as a curiosity; but the history of what antiquaries know of them can be read as well by one who never leaves his chamber, as by the wanderer whose fancy derives pleasure from making a personal visit. For the purpose, however, of fixing indelibly upon the memory, the impression which arises from the contemplation of such objects, I am thoroughly of opinion that nothing can be so effectively successful as seeing them. After this we mounted, and proceeded on our way to Cairo, and when we reached the banks of the Nile we went to visit the gardens of Rhoda. In these I admired the size, the neatness, and the graceful appearance of the numbers of weeping-willows, and the grottoes of shells; but I thought that flowers were much wanting, and even of roses I saw but very few. I thought of the hosts of beauteous flowers which would adorn a garden situated adjacent to any of "The stately homes of England," particularly in the month of June; and I left the shrubbery here without any great sentiment of admiration. On our return, we went to visit the garden at Shoubra, but here we were disappointed, as it so happened that the harem of the Pasha had gone there in the morning, and so we were of course unavoidably denied admission. We had a very fine road on our way planted on each side and affording most agreeable shelter during the hot weather. This is one of the works of Mahommed Ali. This day we went also to see the aqueduct, which is wonderful in its construction. It conveys the water from the Nile to the citadel. For the ingenuity of water-works Egypt is very remarkable. I did not visit the oven for hatching eggs, but a description of it is to be found in many books. or We left Cairo on the morning of the 18th June, and indeed the heat as also the likelihood of plague were both causes which rendered it not a desirable place to reside in long. We sailed through a country more stony, and apparently less cultivated than that which we had above Cairo. We passed numbers of boats of all kinds, either bearing merchandize passengers. The next morning at 2 o'clock, I got up to see the appearance of the starlight night on the Nile. Such a brilliant host of splendid and beauteously shining stars, I never before witnessed. The sky was studded with them. The spacious heavens completely gemmed with such a series of glittering coruscations, formed a canopy such as in no other country have I ever viewed. During this day and at night we met two steamers which were passing up to Cairo. In the first were English travellers, in the second were only Turks and Arabs. The Turks were dressed in very loose trousers which reached only to the knee. They wore a belt with pistols in it, and attached to it a crooked sword, a waistcoat with buttons close set from the chin to the belt, and a loose jacket with sleeves opening from the elbow to the wrist, which could be kept fastened or not as the wearer wished. Their head-dress was the close-fitting cap, called a turboosh in Egypt and a fez in Turkey; their clothes were of all colours, mostly dark grey, scarlet, or green; they seemed to prefer the last. Such Turks as we saw shore were evidently the gentry of the land: they were always mounted on Arab horses. They rode with the inconvenient shovel-shaped stirrups, which I once rode in myself, and never desire to use again. This day we also passed numerous barges crowded with Turks and Arabs; the barges were all furnished with latteen sails. The fields which we passed were not 80 well cultivated as those above Cairo, but we saw several of tobacco and Indian-corn. The harvest of wheat had on just been cut, and numerous fields were lying allow. We saw the next day a number of fields planted with a sort of beans which were used for fodder to the cattle. Their produce is bought by the Pasha and exported from the country. The Pasha has a monopoly of all the cotton, sugar, beans, and corn, which is grown in the country. He has agents all through the country, who make the people work, and they punish those who are indolent or refractory with the bastinado. The Pasha takes the produce at his own price, and this arbitrary mode prevails through all Egypt. As we sailed onwards to Etfou the country seemed much more populous. The villages seen from the boat were much more numerous also. We arrived at Etfou at 6 A.M. on the 21st June. This is a large, mean-looking village. The houses resemble mud pigeon-houses very much crowded together. The people were in great numbers, apparently very well dressed and comfortable. Neither here nor elsewhere in Egypt have we met with a single beggar. Here we entered another large canal boat, which had been prepared for our use by the agent at Alexandria and sent up for us. We then commenced our voyage on the large canal which was dug by Mohammed Ali, commencing here and terminating in Alexandrial It is twenty-five yards across, and for the first mile well lined with trees, and afterwards it was through a flat uninteresting country. Of the manner in which this canal was dug, and the conduct of the Pasha, much has been written. He is, however, only one of the numbers of eastern potentates who have been ,, We met some boats full of soldiers, bound from Alexandria to Cairo. We observed the costume of the women, both on board the boats which we met on the river and also near the shore. They all wore the half veil which conceals the whole of the face except the eyes; it is fastened by a wire frame to the bridge of the nose, and is tied behind the back of the head. We had several Arabs in the boat with us, who kept up & continuous chorus, and did not cease singing either day or night. One song treated of a bird which they considered presided over their destiny; another was a chorus-song inciting one another to work; another one of congratulation to each other as having finished their journey, so far, in safety. Their attention to their forms of devotion might shame the Christian, and show also to him how little true religion lived in the " mere lifeless forms of devotion." They also went on during the day with their dances, and played on the rude instruments which they esteem as music: these produced an uncouth and most inharmonious sound. Their dance consisted in clapping hands and jogging about their hips in a most ungraceful manner. The instruments which they moved to were a pipe and a sort of double fife, also a tambourine; and the women sounded castanettes. The Arabs in Egypt, both male and female, are the most immodest race I have ever come in contact with. We passed two fine palacelike-looking houses, one belonging to an Italian, and the other to the Greek consul. We also saw the large glassmanufactory of Mohammed Ali. These are all built of stone. We passed some large ruined towers which had been formerly used to garrison the guards who acted as protectives to the convoys of supplies which came down the country to Alexandria, and who were stationed there by the Pasha, to prevent the incursions of the different wild tribes of Arabs. However, as these are no longer apprehended, the towers have been allowed to go to decay. We saw, at 7 in the evening, the great salt lake, Meriotis; and, as we had no wind, we proceeded but slowly, and did not reach Alexandria until 7 a.m. on the 22nd June. We landed, and proceeded straight to the gate of entrance, and the guide had our luggage on camels, and followed us close. When we got to the gate a guard of fellows dressed in white, with old ricketty muskets, turned out, and the sentry who walked inside stopped the guide who was with the camels and said something to him in Arabic. Our guide forthwith took a small cloth from his girdle, and handed the said sentry a coin or two, and after this the whole party passed on and "all was well;" but such open-handed bribery I had never before seen. We then proceeded to the city, passing Pompey's Pillar and a burying ground. There are walls all round the city and a dry ditch. After we entered we passed through some clean lanes, with stone walls on each side, surrounding gardens which evidently belonged to rich gentry. We arrived at a very large broad street, in which are the hotels, and where the houses are regular and fine. This, which is called the French quarter of the town, is really, for a foreign town, rather a desirable place of residence. In Alexandria there are plenty of shops, principally kept by French, Maltese, or Italians. The shopkeepers or merchants would not come near us, or take anything, even coin, except by pincers, as we had passed through the plague country. We found that we should have to wait at least five days, as the French steamer had not yet arrived. We took up our quarters at an hotel which was a very convenient one. It was built as all the large houses here are. There is a large court in the centre, to enter which are doors at the back of the building, which is the same size as its front, and the wings of the house have all back entrances to it: they are built at right angles to the front of the house; so this square affords a thorough draft to all the chambers. We transacted all our business satisfactorily, and found that we were obliged to get certificates of health from a doctor, and a passport from a consul previous to being allowed on board the French steamer. We went in the evening to see Cleopatra's Needle. It is a fine obelisk of granite, apparently about True Love. 70 feet in height, not so large as the one which now stands at Luxor, but the hieroglyphics were very deeply cut. Some distance from this another similar one lies prostrate. Some people insist that the fallen one is the true We also extended our Cleopatra's Needle. walk round the town. The vaults, which are made of stone and extend several miles round Alexandria, are inhabited by the poor Arabs. They are the remains of the old town; they are wretched and must, I should think, be unhealthy. The fountains in the centre of the streets of the Frank part of the town are large and pretty. On all were inscribed, in Arabic, the following words: "Drink, and be grateful to Mohammed for the gift of water." The lanes are narrow, close, and dirty. The next day we went to the shipping which lies in the spacious harbour. They were in great numbers, and the Pasha's crafts of war looked very large, but I wsa told, by persons qualified to judge, were We e saw and not of a seaworthy description. went on board several English men-of-war. This is a famous place for trade, and there is a fine wooden pier to the western side of the town. I was much interested by seeing the new war steamers, which were quite a novelty to us after a residence of such duration in India, and the French one which we hoped to sail by was in the harbour. M. W. What though they tell me in fancy you range from me, Love, who would call it love meanly to doubt you, Creeping with petty fears still on your track; True love is my love, though grieving without you, Still leaping to joyous life. Hailing you back, Ever around my lips deep'ning each dimple, As my glad smiles speak my welcome to you Nought do I care that they say I am simple, The bliss but to see you gives they never knew. What though you left me for aye on the morrow, Wedding another for choice or for gold, Silently bearing its burden of sorrow, Still should my love live on deep as untold. Loving you ever, far from me or near to me, Ever more seeking your weal-not my own; Musing on all the sweet time I was dear to you, Until I dreamed it could never have flown. Plucking the hopes from my own life to lay them One loving word to make bitterness sweet. |