CHAPTER V. March to Cettinje-The pass across the frontier-Mon- CHAPTER VI. The occupation of a Montenegrin gentleman-The public CHAPTER VII. Journey to Scutari-Atrocities-A runaway-The vale of CHAPTER VIII. A great victory-A good old custom-On the Lake of CHAPTER IX. - Condition of Albania-Her races-The Mussulman— The PAGE 60 78 90 . 100 . 116 The bazaar-Turkish gipsies-The vendetta-An assassin CHAPTER XI. Our Lady of Scutari—A miracle-The fête-A funeral— A drunken Arnaut-Our escort-Two more Britons -Warm discussion-War-Marco CHAPTER XII. March to Podgoritza-An Albanian khan-Our cookThe Fund-Across the lake-Night visitors-The frontier-Podgoritza―The armourer-The war minister-Dobra Pushka. CHAPTER XIII. PAGE 132 . 151 163 War preparations-Our camp visitors-An impromptu ball CHAPTER XIV. An escort-A Turkish dinner-party-Brigands-Our sportsman-A chief of the league-Objects of the rebels-Achmet Agha-A meeting of the leagueThe boulim-bashi of Klementi-An Arnaut chieftain € 194 CHAPTER XV. To Gussinje-The valley of the Drin-A rough road-In the mountains-Hospitality-A pretty woman-A scientific frontier - Franciscans-Dog Latin-Marco Milano 215 CHAPTER XVI. The mission-house — Gropa — The mandolin-A letter from Ali Bey-A trap-Our throats in danger-Retreat-Nik Leka-Proverbs-A pleasant evening CHAPTER XVII. Rosso and Effendi-A barbaric feast-Patoulis-MeadThe future of Albania-The Italia Irridenta-Sport in Meriditia-Dick Deadeye CHAPTER XVIII. The coffin-A Pasha's death-Horse-dealing-The postman-Brigands-An hotel bill-Down the BojanaDulcigno-Pirates-Farewell LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE 238 . 251 . 268 UNIV. OF CALIFORNIA ALBANIA. CHAPTER I. Where to go to ?-An unknown country-The expedition-Our inventor-Our equipment-The doctor-A useful remedy -The start-Venice-Trieste. ONE day last autumn I was sitting in my Temple chambers, wondering what I should do with myself in the Long Vacation, when I was aroused from my reverie by the entrance of my clerk. "Here is Mr. N., sir." "Show him in." N. entered, and his chance visit solved my problem. "Don't know what to do with yourself? Why, I have the very thing for you. Three friends of mine-Brown, Jones, and Robinson—are preparing for a tour in Albania. I saw Brown this morning, and he told me they wanted somebody else to join their party." B To cut the narrative short, I was introduced to Brown, Jones, and Robinson, as I shall call my travelling companions in this book; and it was not long before I decided to join them in a trip which promised to be a very amusing one. My friends were artists, and had chosen this almost unknown country for their summer tour, as being an unexplored mine for their pencils, both as regards magnificence of scenery and picturesqueness of costume. I myself knew nothing about Albania before starting, with the exception of what I had gleaned from "Childe Harold." The lines where the poet sings, Albania, rugged nurse of savage men, came to my mind; so I took down Byron from my shelves, and read all that he has to say about The wild Albanian kirtled to his knee, With shawl-girt head, and ornamented gun, The information was scanty, but sufficient to show me that no more interesting country could have been chosen for our expedition. I purpose, in this book, to give a narrative of our wanderings in Montenegro and Northern Albania. My aim is not at all an ambitious one, and I do not intend to enter very deeply into the history and already over-discussed politics of the races of Eastern Europe, but merely to jot down |