the Mohammedans in repeating their prayers, which, it was said, had been brought from the holy city; and were manufactured of certain brown and black kinds of wood (the latter like ebony), imported, according to the merchant, from some part of India. They also manufacture in Egypt, from the fruit of the doum tree, very curious beads; but these, as indigenous articles, are less valued; just as in Sicily and Italy, no beads are so highly esteemed as those common sorts which have been blessed in the holy sepulchre by the patriarch of Jerusalem, in which the monks carry on a profitable trade. By the side of these holy chaplets were certain small shells, believed by the Arabs to be a charm against ophthalmia, if rubbed over the eyelids just as the disease makes its appearance. CXXXII. In the factories, where the celebrated Gheneh jars are made, the men were not at work, nearly the whole population being engaged in celebrating, with feasting, music, and abstinence from labour, the festival of their patron saint. I, however, inquired of several manufacturers respecting certain perfumed jars supposed to be fabricated at this place. They assured me the opinion that any perfume is mingled with the clay, for the purpose of scenting the water preserved in the jars for drinking, is perfectly erroneous; but that, in many harems, the women are in the habit of burning mastic on a small chaffing-dish, and holding the mouth of the jars over GOVERNOR OF GHENEH. 323 the smoke; by which means they communicate to them a scent which perfumes the water for eight or ten days, at the expiration of which the operation must be repeated. These jars, called bardaks, are small and long-necked, like bottles, and extremely frail. A larger sort also are manufactured here, which are very cheap, one as large as a barrel costing but two piastres. They are sent in great quantities all over Egypt. CCXXXIII. A young man, born of Greek parents, having attached himself to our boats at Bellianeh, we had from thence given him a passage to Gheneh. He was desirous of going on pilgrimage to Mekka, but had hitherto been unable to obtain a passport, fearing, perhaps, to apply for one, lest he should be taken for a soldier. Being exceedingly active and willing, and, having formerly served in the Turkish navy, he was very useful in the boat. useful in the boat. As he seemed to believe that an application from me would procure a passport from the governor, to oblige him I called upon that important personage; who, somewhat to my astonishment, immediately granted the request, in order, he said, to oblige an Englishman. There being no other objects of curiosity at Gheneh, where it was with difficulty that we found a supply of bread, I hastened to cross the river, in order to spend the rest of the day in the temple of Venus, where I remained until sunset. As I rode back, across the plain, accompanied by my Arabs, the peaks of the mountains, on both sides of the Nile, were covered 324 HATCHING CROCODILES. with a deep rose-colour of inexpressible beauty, heightened, perhaps, by contrast with the bright blue sky, and the dense shadows which already began to gather round their bases. In the evening I received a very welcome visit from Dr. Hogg, of Naples, who, having ascended the river as far as the second cataract, was now returning to Cairo. He had purchased several papyri, cineral urns, small mummies, &c. at Thebes; and his companion had a small living crocodile, about eighteen inches long, which he kept on board, putting it into water about two hours per day.* The French employed in removing the obelisk from Luxor, obtained a number of crocodiles' eggs, which were hatched by the heat of the atmosphere on the way to Cairo. Monday, Jan. 7. Negâdeh. CCXXXIV. The wind being favourable I quitted Déndera, not without regret, though proceeding towards Thebes. I omitted to examine the sites of Coptos, Pampanis, Maximianopolis, and Tathyris, though, were sufficient time given to the investigation, important discoveries might, probably, be made there. This whole day was consumed in abridging the voluminous notes made at Déndera, where patient and laborious research might, perhaps, obtain materials for a complete Egyptian Pantheon. The breeze, though favourable, was exceedingly faint. A day's sail, with a good wind, ought to have brought us to * This crocodile I did not see, its owner being absent with it at Gheneh. COPTS OF NEGâdeh. 325 Thebes; but, at eleven o'clock, we found ourselves becalmed about a mile beyond Negadeh, where we moored for the night. This town, according to D'Anville, occupies the site of Maximianopolis*; and is said to be chiefly inhabited by Copts t, who, at the period of Mr. Jowett's visit, were supposed to amount to about two hundred families; but, in matters of this kind, no stress can be laid on the reports of the natives, who, in every thing that concerns numbers, are almost invariably guilty of extravagant exaggeration. * Géographie Ancienne, t. iii. p. 34. From the narrative of this traveller no very favourable opinion can be formed of the Copts of Negâdeh. "The crowd of followers was so great," he observes, "that I was annoyed with dust, and stunned with their unruly riot. The priests and masters seemed to have no power to keep them quiet, either in the church or in the school. One exclaimed, 'The Copts are like bees, running after a stranger.'.... In a town where a few Turkish soldiers are garrisoned, the Copts would sooner run into a corner, than make such a tumult, as they did on every side at Negâdeh." — Christian Researches, p. 151. 326 APPROACH TO THEBES. CHAPTER XIV. APPROACH TO THEBES FIRST VIEW OF THE RUINS SAIL FOR QUARRIES OF ES SOUAN · ANCIENT SUPERSTITIONS. NUBIAN FEMALE Tuesday, Jan. 8. THEBES. CCXXXV. WE had scarcely rested two hours when the wind again freshened; upon which, though it was still night, I roused the Arabs, and departed; my anxiety to arrive at Thebes increasing in proportion as we drew nearer. The moon, which had just passed the full, shone brightly and beautifully, shedding a kind of pale daylight over the rocks and waters. sat at the door of my cabin, contemplating in silence the obscure features of the landscape. The Arabs, drowsy from over-watching, lost their habitual loquacity. Not a sound was heard, except the ripple of I |