ticular of the manners and customs of the Greeks of the Morea, Roumelia, and the other christain parts of Turkey in Europe and Asia. They appear, a distinct race from the inhabitants of the mountains, and perhaps are sprung from ancient settlers, who may have retired, from time to time, before the successive conquerors of Peloponnesus and Greece, into a country where, although enslaved, they were less exposed to perpetual ravages and to a frequent change of masters.-

The Greeks of Ioannina are, with the exception of the priests, and of some few who are in the employments of the Pasha, all engaged in trade; and many of the better sort pass three or four years in the merchant-houses of Trieste, Genoa, Leghorn, Venice, and Vienna, which in addition to the education they receive in the schools of their own city, where they may learn French and Italian, gives them a competent knowledge of the most diffused modern languages, and adds also to the ease and urbanity of their address.-

There is a fair which lasts a fortnight, held once a year on the plain, a mile and half to the south-east of the city, and during this time all the tradesmen are obliged to leave their shops in the Bazar and Bizestein, which are shut, and to set up booths in the plain. This the vizier finds a very good method of getting at some knowledge of the actual property of his subjects. The fair was held during our residence in the city, and opened on the 8th of October, when we passed through it on horseback.'-

Cloth of French and German manufacture is sent from Leipsig. This is the chief article of importation, as it is from this fair that all the richer Greeks and Turks, not only in Albania but in great part of Roumelia and in the Morea, supply themselves with the loose robes and pelisses of their winter dress. English cloth is in the highest estimation, but seldom to be met with here, or even at Smyrna and Constantinople, on account of its great price. The best of the cloth sold at Ioannina was not equal to the worst of that manufactured in England, and was of a coarse thin texture, and very badly dyed.

The articles of exportation are, oil, wool, corn, and tobacco, for the ports of the Adriatic and Naples; and, for inland circulalation through Albania and Roumelia, spun cottons from the plains of Triccala, stocks of guns and pistols mounted in chased silver, both plain and gilt, and also embroidered velvets, stuffs, and cloths, which are here better wrought than in any other part of Turkey in Europe.

'Large flocks of sheep and goats, and droves of cattle and horses, are collected from the hills both of the Lower and Upper Albania for the fair. Of these, all but the horses, which are dispersed in the country, are sold into the Ionian islands.

From Ioannina, the course of the travellers was directed northwards to the town of Tepellene; where they found Ali

Pacha engaged in the bustle of military movements, and about to extend his territory by incorporating into it the possessions of a neighbouring prince. During their journey, they had ample opportunity of observing that the Albanians devolve on their women a number of toilsome and degrading offices. The aged matron and the tender maiden are seen fetching water from the distant fountain, and labouring under the weight of their large pitchers, one of which they carry on the head, the other in the hand.-On arriving at head-quarters, the travellers were received with attention by the officers of the pacha, and were formally introduced to him on the next day.

The vizier was a short man, about five feet five inches in height, and very fat. He had a very pleasing face, fair and round, with blue quick eyes, not at all settled in a Turkish gravity. His beard was long and white, and such a one as any other Turk would have been proud of; though he, who was more taken up with his guests than himself, did not continue looking at it, nor smelling and stroking it, as is usually the custom of his countrymen, to fill up the pauses of conversation. He was not very magnificently dressed, except that his high turban, composed of many small rolls, seemed of fine gold muslin, and his attaghan, or long dagger, was studded with brilliants.

'He was mightily civil; and said he considered us as his children. He showed us a mountain howitzer, which was lying in his apartment, and took the opportunity of telling us that he had several large cannon. He turned round two or three times to look through an English telescope, and at last handed it to us that we might look at a party of Turks on horseback riding along the banks of the river towards Tepellenè. He then said, " that man whom you see on the road is the chief minister of my enemy, Ibrahim Pasha, and he is now coming over to me, having deserted his master to take the stronger side." He addressed this with a smile to the secretary, desiring him to interpret it to us.

"We took pipes, coffee, and sweetmeats, with him; but he did not seem so particular about these things as other Turks whom we have seen. He was in great good humour, and several times laughed aloud, which is very uncommon in a man of consequence: I never saw another instance of it in Turkey.-

6 There are no common topics of discourse between a Turkish vizier and a traveller, which can discover the abilities of either party, especially as these conversations are always in the form of question and answer. However, a Frank may think his Turk above the common run, if his host does not put any very foolish interrogatories to him, and Ali did not ask us any questions that betrayed his ignorance. His liveliness and ease gave us very favourable impressions of his natural capacity.

In the evening of the next day we paid the vizier another visit, in an apartment more elegantly furnished than the one with the fountain. Whilst we were with him, a messenger came in from "Berat," the place which Ali's army (of about five thousand men) was then besieging. We were not acquainted with the contents of a letter, which was read aloud, until a long gun, looking like a duck gun, was brought into the room; and then, upon one of us asking the secretary if there were many wild fowl in the neighbourhood, he answered, yes; but that, for the gun, it was going to the siege of Berat, there being a want of ordnance in the vizier's army. It was impossible not to smile at this war in miniature.'

We told "Ay,"

'He asked us, what had made us travel in Albania? him the desire of seeing so great a man as himself. returned he, "did you ever hear of me in England?" We, of course, assured him, that he was a very common subject of conversation in our country; and he seemed by no means inaccessible to the flattery.'

This singular character was at that time about sixty years of age; and, though born of a family of some consequence, he owed his acquisition of power altogether to his own exertions. Having made himself master first of one village, then of another, he collected together a considerable body of Albanians, whom he paid, according to the common practice, by plunder. After having acted for many years as one of those independent freebooters, of whom so many are to be found in the Turkish empire, he at last obtained money enough to buy an inferior pachalik, and elevated himself by the progressive operation of force and artifice to his present situation. He subsequently contrived to obtain pachaliks for both his sons; one of whom, named Veli, is pacha of the Morea. Unprincipled as his career has been, he has succeeded in clearing his dominions from those bands of robbers who formerly laid both inhabitants and travellers under an indiscriminate contribution: but the neighbouring territory continues in the most disturbed state. His regular force is generally about eight thousand men: but, as every Albanian is familiar with the use of the gun and the sabre, and firmly attached to his ruler, any attempt, on the part of a foreign enemy, to conquer the country, would be extremely hazardous. Throughout the whole of this ter ritory, the imperial firman is little respected, while the signature of the pacha commands unlimited obedience. His revenue arises from a number of villages, which are considered as his own property, as well as from various towns and districts which are forced to pay him for protection; altogether, it exceeds half a million sterling, a sum of great importance in that country.

When they took leave, the travellers received from the pacha a letter to his officers in the quarter whither they intended to proceed, of which a fac-simile is inserted towards the end of the work; and, as the running hand of a modern Greek is almost unintelligible except to a practised reader, Mr. H. has given (p. 1151.) a copy of the letter in the usual character, each line corresponding with the fac-simile. His readers will, no doubt, be gratified on finding such an approximation to the classic language, in a composition which is not put together with care in the closet, but which expresses the current diction of those barbarians.

With respect to the national character of the Albanians, Mr. Hobhouse, without lanching into the effusions of Pouqueville, describes them as men of great spirit and activity. Their stature is of the middle size, their chests are full and broad, their eyes lively, and their posture is upright. Their women are tall, hardy, and not ill looking, but bear in their countenance the decisive tokens of penury and hard labour. The men always go armed, having a pistol in their belt, and frequently a curved sabre at their side. The peasants carry a long gun when tending their flocks, and often when tilling their land, so much have the unsettled habits of the country impressed on the whole population the necessity of defence. The Albanian dress, when new and clean, is not inelegant, but the clothes commonly worn are of a coarse and dirty appearance. Their dwellings have generally two apartments, one of which is the place of depositing their maize and grapes. In point of diet, the people are usually temperate, and save their money with a view to the purchase of arms and trinkets.

On leaving Albania, Mr. H. proceeded, under the protection of a guard, through the ancient Acarnania, and passed the Achelous, (now the Aspro,) the largest of the Grecian rivers. After having crossed over to Patras, he and his noble friend returned to the northern side of the gulf, and held their course by Parnassus to Livadia, Charonæa, Orchomenos, and Thebes; visiting, by the way, the ruins of Delphi and the Castalian spring. The places honoured with these high-sounding names afford, however, in their present condition, very little to animate the enthusiasm of an admirer of the classics. The towns and villages in most parts of Greece are insignificant beyond description; the streams are mere rivulets; and disappointment is experienced in every thing except in the beauty of some parts of the scenery, and the grandeur of others. On the rugged surface of Delphi, it was in vain to look for ground fitted for the site of a town of magnitude: but the difficulty of access

sufficiently pointed it out as a safe place for depositing treasures. Though Delphi was often plundered, yet, when due precautions were taken, we find from history that the invaders, whether Persians or Gauls, were repulsed, and taught to reverence the sanctity of the spot. One only of the master-pieces which adorned Delphi is now in preservation, but it is a relic of the highest importance:

The triple-twisted serpentine column of brass, whose three heads supported the tripod dedicated by the Greeks, after the battle of Platea, to Apollo, is still to be seen, though mutilated, in the spot to which it was conveyed from Delphi by Constantine, to adorn the hippodrome of his new capital. The column, as much of it as is seen above ground, is now about seven feet in height, and of a proportionate thickness. It is hollow, and the cavity has by the Turks been filled up with stones.'

Boeotia is remarkably destitute of ancient remains, and the traveller who makes a progress through it will find little on the spot to assist his conjectures. The following particulars afford a striking example of the frailty of human affairs in the case of the city which, under Epaminondas and Pelopidas, exercised such distinguished influence over the Grecian community:

Thebes has been in a manner blotted out of the page of history, since the last battle of Charonéa between Sylla and Taxilus. In the time of Strabo it had the appearance of a village, which was the case with all the other Boeotian cities, except Tanagra and Thespiæ. Onchestus, Haliartus, Coronea, and other towns, once of considerable magnitude, were almost in ruins, and hastening fast to decay. In the second century, the whole of the lower town, except the temples, had fallen to the ground, and the citadel alone, no longer called Cadméa but Thebes, now continued to be inhabited. It never appears to have recovered its importance under the emperors. It is now a very poor town, containing about five hundred houses, mostly of wood, and inhabited chiefly by Turks. It has two mosks and four churches. We slept two nights in the town, and were lodged in the house of a Greek bishop. There is nothing worthy of notice in this place; though a public clock, certainly without a rival in this part of Turkey, is considered by the people of the place and pointed out to travellers as a great curiosity.'

The stream of the Ismenus has been much diminished, by the means taken to make part of its waters flow in an artificial channel, for the sake of turning an overshot-mill about a hundred paces below the fountain. We stepped across it with case, and, had we walked through it, should not have been wet above the ankles.'